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Title: Clothing Post by: Evil Bob on September 19, 2011, 05:10:37 PM Style and clothing are going to be less important in the Legion, but I'm sure many people want to be able to describe how they dress and may be unsure of just how a Kimono works, or what that cool jacket that samurai wear, ect...
This thread will teach you how to dress yourself, for court, battle, a causal lunch or a fancy dinner. Anyone is welcome to post what they know about this subject. Title: Re: Clothing Post by: Yoritomo Virendra on September 19, 2011, 07:22:38 PM I'm too lazy to copy/paste. (http://www.l5r.com/wintercourt/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=175&start=0)
Especially 'cause it has links in it. Title: Re: Clothing Post by: Kitsuki Yasuko on September 20, 2011, 05:52:15 PM Same article as above, but expanded on.
Originally written by AGM_Amaryllis for Winter Court: Kyuden Gotei, reposted with permission. The culture and couture of kimono is long, winding, and as old as the Empire itself. The staple clothing of the entire culture, it comes in many shapes, variations, and fabrics, each uniquely suited to a personal's social position, taste, season, type of occasion, formality, and the popular trend set at important courts throughout the year. Each ensemble can speak volumes about a person. A kimono consists of five basic parts: Kimono Basics Undergarment - For men, it is typically a fundoshi of a natural fiber. For women, it is the hadajuban and the nagajuban. The difference between the two is one is split between a top and lower skirt, and the nagajuban is a continuous piece, an under kimono in other words. The hadajuban is worn beneath the nagajuban, and is plain white or natural colored. The nagajuban is typically a color that compliments the full kimono ensemble, as it is only briefly seen when the sleeves or lower hem flutters. Kimono - What is worn over the undergarments and makes up the primary ensemble, defined as a full length robe. Types and motifs vary by gender, age, social status, formality of occasion, and season. The younger you are, the more bright and bold the colors and designs are. The more venerable one becomes, the more subdued the entire ensemble will be. Obi - Much as the Sun and Moon hold the Empire together, does the obi sash hold the kimono closed so one does not expose themselves immodestly. Like kimono, types of obi and motifs will vary by Types and motifs vary by gender, age, social status, formality of occasion, and season. The obi itself is just one part of the entire set of accessories needed to properly coordinate a kimono. More will follow in the postings to come. Tabi - Simply, split-toed socks. There is an inlet for your big toe, and the other four share a space together. They are typically made of natural fibers such as hemp or cotton, but special occasions can call for silk. Come in a variety of colors, but white is the most pervasive color used. Geta & Zori - Your fanicful footwear. Geta are sandals constructed primarily in wood, with a fabric thong to hold the foot in place. These are mostly worn during informal occasions. Zori, however, are more formal "slippers" that come in a variety of colors to match ensembles. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Women's Kimono - Formal and Informal In terms of fashion and clothing, the women of Rokugan are spoiled by options when it comes to their kimonos. Whether a day spent strolling the gardens or a heated day in court, regardless of the formality or occasion, the kimono worn by women do not disappoint. However, by their very nature, kimono are meant to promote a certain physical aesthetic, that is to say, they do not typically flatter the natural shape of women. Though clearly, throughout the ages, exceptions have been made and kimono customs across clans differ greatly. Types of Kimono Yukata - The most informal type of kimono, customarily made of cotton, ro, or lightweight hemp. This is mostly worn in the summer. It's not uncommon for samurai to wear yukata (both during and out of the summer season) when in their home, when full formality is not needed. The designs on yukata are often very simplistic, usually a repeated pattern, and single colored. Furisode - The most formal dress for young, unmarried women, which is worn for court, public showings, or other occasions that require to put on a good appearance (such as one's gempukku). The furisode is easily recognised for it's long flowing sleeves, and almost always feature beautiful and flamboyant patterns and colors. Uchikake - Uchikake is worn for a variety of occasions, depending on it's color and pattern. The most common use of uchikake is as an overcoat for women in winter, especially in court. Another use is for the wedding ceremony, when a white uchikake is worn over the red furisode (called a kakeshita), to symbolize the "death" of the bride for her family, and the red layer is for her "rebirth" into her new family. Tomesode - This is a very formal dress for married women, which they will most often use when attending a wedding, or other celebrations. There are two types of tomosode: iro-tomosode and kuro-tomosode. Both are worn for formal occasions, but at events such as weddings, kuro-tomosodes tend to be the rule, as only the bride should be in color. The tomesode has notably shorter and more boxier sleeves than a furisode and many other kinds of kimono, clearly signalizing that this is a married woman. Iromuji - This is simply the term used for a kimono that has been dyed in only one color. Sometimes during winter, women wear iromuji kimono as a second layer of clothing for extra warmth. Houmongi - The Houmongi becomes the new daily garment for a married woman, and is often given as a wedding gift from her parents or a mother-in-law. This becomes the usual formal wear for married women, since they no longer wear the furisode. This also have shorter and boxier sleeves than the furisode, so it's recognizable as the dress of a married woman. Komon - Komon kimono are patterned kimono made by stencil dyeing, the fabric is usually figured silks, spun silks or crepe. It's more formal than the yukata, but not so formal like the houmongo, tomesode, or furisode, so it is the most usual everyday wear for all women. Types of Obi Maru obi - The Maru obi is the most formal of all obi. It's very long and very broad, and you need to fold it. The Maru obi is also very heavy, due to its contstruction. Maru obi are only worn with formal kimono, such as furisode, tomesode and houmongi. Fukuro obi - This obi is also formal, but is not as heavy and long as the Maru obi. Women use these more often than Maru obi, as Maru obi is for the most formal of occassions. A Fukuro obi is worn with furisode, iromuji, tomesode, homoungi, and sometimes with komon. Nagoya obi - This obi is already folded and sewn together (about halfway, so the folded part is wrapped around your stomach, while the unfolded part is for the bow), so you don't have to fold it yourself. The nagoya obi is the obi that makes the square box knot at the back, and is commonly used by married women (though unmarried women can use it as well with no trouble). A Nagoya obi usually accompanies a tomesode, iromuji, houmongi or komon, and is considered an elegant obi that can be worn when the situation is not formal. Hanhaba obi - Also known as "half-width obi", this obi is already folded and is the easiest obi to use, as it is lighter and shorter than the other obi. Hanhaba obi is the most informal of all the obi, and is only worn with yukata and sometimes with komon. In special occasions, women will wear these in conjunction with hakama. Obi Accessories Obijime - After a woman has tied her obi, she often adds a finishing touch to her attire by tying a colorful silk cord, called obijime, around her waist (then being in the center of the kimono). The obijime can be tied into many fanciful knots and shapes. Obidome - These small pieces of "jewelry" are attached to the cords of the obijime, a broach of sorts. They often have the shapes of animals or mythical beings for good luck (such as cranes, turtles, houhous, dragons, ki-rin, etc). Inro - Since the kimono has no pockets (and you don't want to put everything in your sleeve), the inro is ideal to use. Most often used by men (since their sleeves are not ideally shaped to be used as a "pocket" like the women's kimono), the inro hangs from a cord that is tied around the waist. Men usually tuck this cord under their obi, while women could hang it from their obijime. Netsuke - Netsuke are small figurines that can be attached to obijime or other types of cord. It can hang at the end of an obijime, or it can serve as decoration for the cord holding the inro. Obiage - Worn by women, obiage is a piece of fabric made of chirimen silk or shibori. After putting on the obi, the obiage is tied around the waist over the obi, and is then tucked into the obi, letting it show only a little (or as much as one feels like). Miscellaneous Accessories Haori - Haori is a short jacket worn over the kimono, tied together at the front by elegant silk cords. It is often adorned with the family crests or other auspicious motifs. Michiyuki - This is a double-breasted, square-necked silk jacket or short "coat." These usually have covered buttons and snaps. To look nice, a michiyuki needs to be fastened, and thus the size is more critical, than with haori. Hakama - During special events, such as an exhibition of an art which one has dedicated themselves to, women will wear hakama. It is typical among samurai-ko, but only common for those in the bushi class. When they are worn for a formal occasion, they come right up beneath the bust. In Closing So what is needed for a full ensemble for women? All of the basics, plus an obiage and obijime. The inro, netsuke, and obidome are optional. A full ensemble should look something like this: (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2723/4058784863_9d3aefbda8.jpg) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Men's Kimono - Formal and Informal Men, however, are rather limited in what they can wear, as well as the amount of color and motifs used. This is contrast with women, whose ensembles are typically bright and boistrous, the men are more subdued and down to business. Types of Kimono Yukata - The most informal type of kimono, customarily made of cotton, ro, or lightweight hemp. This is mostly worn in the summer. It's not uncommon for samurai to wear yukata (both during and out of the summer season) when in their home, when full formality is not needed. The designs on yukata are often very simplistic, usually a repeated pattern, and single colored. Kimono - The men's equivalent of a komon for women, it is a simple robe with a single color, and a design emblazoned across the back. Types of Obi Kaku - This is the type of obi only used by men. It is not near as wide as the women's obi (even the hanhaba) and is also much shorter. The kaku obi is worn much lower than a woman's obi, where a woman's obi encompasses as much as her waist as possible, while the kaku obi is tied above the hips. The kaku can be used for both formal and informal events, depending on the way it's tied and it's appearance. Obi Accessories Inro - Since the kimono has no pockets (and you don't want to put everything in your sleeve), the inro is ideal to use. Most often used by men (since their sleeves are not ideally shaped to be used as a "pocket" like the women's kimono), the inro hangs from a cord that is tied around the waist. Men usually tuck this cord under their obi, while women could hang it from their obijime. Miscellaneous Accessories Haori - Haori is a short jacket worn over the kimono, tied together at the front by elegant silk cords. It is often adorned with the family crests or other auspicious motifs. Hakama - Most often paired with a man's kimono, this is a staple of male dress. In the end, most men are usually dressed like this: (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3211/3129825582_de966b947a.jpg) Do note that court regalia is much more dated than modern kimonos. For more information on period specific regalia, please visit Sengoku Daimyo (http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.html). ------------------------------------------------------------------ But what about other cultural clothing? As Rokugan is a amalgamation of Asian cultures and history, it makes sense that its clothing is also influenced by non-Japanese sources. China: Han-Fu The precursor to what is known as the kimono, Han-Fu is the traditional dress of the Han Chinese people, with a timeline spanning over 3000 years. Shenyi - Along full body garment with two types: Quju, a diagonal body wrapping and Zhiju, straight lapel style. Zhongyi or zhongdan - Inner garments, mostly white cotton or silk. Shanqun - A short coat with a long skirt Ruqun - A top garment with a separate lower garment or skirt Kuzhe - A short coat with trousers Zhiduo/zhishen - A Ming Dynasty style robe, similar to a zhiju shenyi but with vents at the side and 'stitched sleeves' (i.e. the sleeve cuff is closed save a small opening for the hand to go through) (http://www.newsgd.com/culture/culturenews/200606300019_61856.jpg) Wikipedia Entry on Han-Fu (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Han_fu) Korea: Hanbok The hanbok's history is varied. Once used as the clothing of the aristocracy, it has in more modern times become associated as the indigenous clothing of the Korean people. It's a fairly simple mode of dress, with an A-line wrap-skirt (chima) for women underneath a short top coat (jeogori). Men typically wear the coat and a pair of baggy pants (baji). Jeogori - The upper garment of the hanbok, worn by men and women and used primarily to cover the arms. Chima - The skirt worn by women under the jeogori. The petticoat, sokchima, has become popular to make the skirt more full. Baji - Simply, the pants. Modern Korean uses the same word for trousers, and thus it is an unchanged concept. Po - A long outer-robe or coat that is worn mostly by men. It goes over the Jeogori and the Baji and is used to protect from the cold. (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/04/Korea-Busan-Beomeosa-04.jpg/468px-Korea-Busan-Beomeosa-04.jpg) Wikipedia Entry on Hanbok (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanbok) Vietnam: Ao Dai The Vietnamese national costume, the modern Ao Dai is a garment reserved solely for women. It is commonly a form-fitting tunic worn over a pair of billowy trousers. (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6b/%C3%81o_d%C3%A0i%2C_H%E1%BB%93_G%C6%B0%C6%A1m-crop.jpg) Wikipedia Entry on Ao Dai (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/aodai) |